The Sights, Smells & Sounds of Christmas in Italy

by: Deborah K. Millemaci

In Italy the Christmas season is a wonderful mixture of breathtaking sights, tantalizing smells, and captivating sounds. The customs and traditions observed are as varied as each region.

In Rome there are two events worth experiencing. Piazza Navona is transformed into an astonishing illumination of white lights. Beginning around December 15th, hundreds of booths line the sides of this grand piazza and vendors will offer a vast array of traditional foods as well as games, gifts, and toys.

Thousands of people crowd into the piazza to view the large Nativity scene displayed there and each year a special theme is the focal point of the festivities. The opening ceremonies consist of the blessing of the square by the Roman Auxiliary Bishop. Overlooking the piazza is the balcony of the Braschi Palace. It is from here the Bishop will deliver his blessing. Afterwards, while being accompanied by dignitaries and clergy, he will walk the entire length of the piazza finally stopping at the Nativity scene which is in the center of the piazza. Once prayers have been recited the festivities officially begin.

On the night before Epiphany (Jan. 5th), Piazza Navona is filled with last minute shoppers looking for bargains as children receive their gifts on Epiphany or “Little Christmas” January 6th.

Another recognized tradition that will be found in Rome and surrounding areas is the appearance of the zampognari (Italian bagpipers) and the pifferai (flute players) sheperds who travel from their homes in the Abbruzzi mountains to entertain the throngs of people throughout Rome, Calabria, and Abbruzzi regions. They are easy to recognize in their traditional colorful costumes of sheepskin vests, knee-high breeches, white stockings and long dark cloaks. Their melodies fill the air with the loveliest of sounds.

The Christmas Crèche (Manger scene) originated in Italy and is one of the most popular sights during the holiday season. They may be presented simply or in more grand style as seen in Naples. The first crèche was made by St. Francis of Assisi and today they will be seen in churches, piazzas...almost everywhere.

A visit to the Christmas markets will have vendors displaying their homemade figures for the manger scenes. The Sheperd’s Market in Naples has craftsmen who skillfully sculpt these figures and they are in such demand they are shipped all over the world.

And in Pescaglia (Florence), the “Presepe in Grotta,” a Nativity scene “down under” attacts a multitude of visitors each year. Near the lake inside a cave, large statues representing the Holy Family, the shepards and the animals are placed. The addition of soft music and lights enhances the beauty of this annual event.

The “Ceppo” or tiered tree will still be found in Italy, although many people have been using green artificial trees in recent years. What makes this tree so unique is the design as it is shaped like a pyramid. On the bottom shelf a small manger scene is placed. The middle shelf may contain greenery and fruit. The next shelf will hold Christmas ornaments or smaller figures depicting the nativity scene, and the very top of the ceppo may have a treetop decoration or a pineapple which signifies hospitality. On the outside of each tier are small rounded candle holders. It has also been called the Tree of Light and if you have the opportunity to see one you’ll know why.

One of the most popular aromas of the Christmas season is the roasting of chestnuts (castagne) on the street corners and you will find them everywhere. They are also used in the traditional Christmas soup Crema di Castagne (Chestnut soup). One of the reasons chestnuts are so popular during the holiday season is because it’s the only time of year you will find them at their freshest.

Christmas Eve is customarily a meatless meal with anguilla (eel) being the focal point. This is a long treasured tradition observed throughout most of Italy. Other fish served are fried smelts, baccala (cod), scungili (snails), and scallops.

The Italian foods of Christmas are as varied as the towns and villages they come from. A few of the more popular foods served during this celebration of Christmas include: Panettone, a special Christmas bread from Milan, filled with raisins and citrus peel bits. Florence will offer a special cake known as Castagnacco which is made with pine nuts, fennel seeds, and chestnut flour. Torta Vigilia di Natale (Cake of Christmas Eve) from Tuscany is a wonderful combination of almonds, candied peel, hazelnuts and sprinkled on top with powdered sugar. Other foods served will be stuffed Artichokes and Tortellini.

The best gift we can give to our families are our treasured customs and traditions. It is our legacy to our future generations. Our ancestors preserved them for us and now it is our turn to preserve and treasure them for our children.

My friends in Italy and I would like to send you all our best wishes for a joyous holiday season. Buon Natale !!

Deborah maintains a web site called CAPUCINA'S ITALIAN-AMERICAN CONNECTIONS.

*** This article was published in the November/December 1998 Issue of GENEALOGIA ITALIANA, the bi-monthly newsletter of the Buffalo & Western New York Italian Genealogy Society, Buffalo, New York.